This gorgeous Lavender and Mint cold process soap recipe is one of my favorites right now. It’s totally vegan friendly, and exactly what you need to get you going in the morning.
I don’t know about anyone else, but when I drag myself out of bed in morning this soap is my go-to for a wake me up shower. The fresh mint invigorates my mind and senses and the lavender gives my skin a beautiful, floral aroma that I can smell for hours.
Why Make This Soap?
The simple, yet very effective aroma of Lavender and Mint is one that can appeal to a wide range of people. Of all the soap recipes I like to hand out as a gift, this is the one that most people come back telling me they love it. But as we know, essential oils are more than a nice smell, they have active properties too!
Lavender, for instance, is exceptionally soothing, inhibits fungal growth and even speeds the healing of minor wounds. Peppermint, on the other hand, reduces itchiness and revitalizing dull or tired skin, giving you back that youthful glow!
The choice of oils and butters are also a good combination that will nourish and rehydrate skin. The added botanical of dried mint leaves will help to exfoliate, ridding your skin of that dried, dead cells. They also give this soap an interesting look, which would otherwise be a boring, beige soap that wouldn’t really demand anyone’s attention.
So let’s take a look at all the different ingredients we’ll need to whip up a batch of this delicious smelling soap.
Supplies For My Mint and Lavender Soap
This makes 1.287KG, which should be roughly 10-12 bars of soap, depending on how thick you cut the loaf.
Oils and Butters
- 258g Distilled Water (boiled tap water or bottled drinking water is fine)
- 129g Sodium Hydroxide/Lye Crystals
Essential Oils and Botanicals
How To Make CP Soap With Lavender and MintSafety first! Apply your safety glasses and protective gloves. Lye solution can cause some nasty burns.
Step 1: I like to start off by weighing out my essential oils into a glass container now. This just makes it easier later on when we come to add them, as getting these minute measurements right can take some time.
Step 2: Weigh the distilled water into a glass jug. In a separate container, weigh your sodium hydroxide/lye crystals.
When you’re ready, combine these by pouring your lye crystals into the water and stirring. This will result in a chemical reaction, and the lye water will begin to increase in temperature and release noxious fumes. Turn your head and lean away while stirring, so not to breathe any of the fumes in.
Now place to one side, somewhere well ventilated, and allow to cool as we get on with our other steps.
Step 3: Weigh out and melt the cocoa butter and coconut oil. You can do this in a water bath, although I like to use a series of 30 second bursts in the microwave.
Step 4: Weigh out the olive, avocado, and castor oils into the container holding the cocoa butter and the coconut oil.
Step 5: Now it’s time to balance our oils and lye water. Check the temperature of the oils and compare this to the temperature of the lye water. We want them both to fall between 90-120F. Don’t try to warm the lye water up, but you can heat up the oils a little bit if they’re too cold.
Step 6: Once you’re satisfied they’re balanced, pour your lye solution into your oils and blend with a stick blender until you reach trace.
Want a better description of trace? Take a look at step 5 of Soap Making – A Guide For Beginners Using Cold Process.
Step 7: Now we’re at trace, it’s time to add our essential oils and mint. Add your essential oils first, mix thoroughly and then add the mint. We don’t want all the mint to sink to the bottom, so I like to add it first.
Step 8: Now all our ingredients have been mixed together, it’s time to get it into the mold. Once you add the essential oils, you’ll notice that soap begins to rapidly thicken. So, working quickly but carefully (as the batter is still caustic), pour or spoon the batter into your loaf mold.
We’ll want to leave this to saponify for 24-48 hour before we can remove from the mold. I like to keep it well insulated during this period, just so gel phase is efficient. I do this by cutting a piece of cardboard to sit on top of the mold and then wrap it in an old towel that I only ever use for this purpose.
Step 9: Once our soap has fully sapped, it’s okay to remove from the mold and cut into bars. You should be able to get between 10-12 bars from this batch, depending on desired thickness.
Then, leave these to cure for 4 weeks, testing with a Ph indicator strip to ensure it’s safe to use (this is especially important if you gift or sell your soaps).
I hope you enjoyed reading!
I would love to hear from you so please feel free to leave a comment or ask any questions below.