This cleansing balm not only has a wonderful aroma, it has been carefully balanced to melt easily, cleanse effectively, and rinse away cleanly without leaving an oily residue.
When water is added, it transforms from an oil-based balm into a light, milky cleanser, lifting away makeup, SPF, and daily grime while leaving the skin soft and comfortable.
Because it’s an anhydrous (water-free) formula, there’s no need for a preservative, and the texture remains stable while still feeling gentle and nourishing on the skin.
Introduction
This fruity cleansing balm is easy to make, even if you’re new to DIY skincare. Everything is melted together in one heatproof jar, so there’s very little mess and no complicated equipment needed. The active making time is around 20–30 minutes, with extra time for the balm to cool and set.
The oils and butters have been chosen because they’re stable, long-lasting, and safe to heat gently, which makes the process more forgiving. When stored correctly, the finished balm stays fresh and effective for many months.
Spotlight on the Benefits
- Melts quickly on contact with the skin.
- Transforms into a milky cleanser when water is added.
- Rinses clean with no greasy after-feel.
- Effectively removes makeup and SPF.
- Leaves skin soft, hydrated, and comfortable.
- Water-free formula, so no preservative needed.
- Gentle enough for daily use.
- A little goes a long way.
Key Ingredients & Why They’re Used
Coconut Oil
Coconut oil gives the balm its solid structure and helps it melt beautifully on the skin. It has excellent cleansing properties, helping to break down makeup and impurities while leaving the skin feeling soft. In this formula, it also helps the balm stay solid at room temperature.
Mango Butter
Mango butter adds creaminess and helps prevent the balm from feeling overly oily. It’s rich in fatty acids that support the skin barrier and leave the skin feeling nourished rather than stripped.
Cetyl Alcohol
Cetyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol that improves texture and stability. It gives the balm a smooth, silky feel and helps create a creamy, luxurious texture without making the product waxy or heavy. It’s non-drying and very skin friendly.
Apricot Kernel Oil
Apricot kernel oil is lightweight and easily absorbed, making it ideal for facial products. It helps soften the skin and balance the richer oils in the formula, keeping the balm comfortable and suitable for normal to dry skin.
Castor Oil
Castor oil boosts the cleansing power of the balm. It’s particularly good at breaking down makeup and sunscreen while still being gentle on the skin.
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
This is the key ingredient that allows the balm to rinse off cleanly. When water is added, it helps the oils emulsify and turn milky, making it easy to rinse away without leaving residue. This is what gives the balm its effective oil-to-milk cleansing action. This is usually an easy to use ingredient; it’s very economical and usually easy to obtain.
Vitamin E (optional)
Vitamin E acts as an antioxidant, helping to slow down oil oxidation and keep the balm fresher for longer. It also offers additional skin-conditioning benefits.
Sweet Orange Essential Oil
Sweet orange essential oil gives the balm a fresh, uplifting scent. It’s used at a low level to add fragrance without overwhelming the skin.
Mica
This is an optional fun ingredient. It doesn’t bring anything apart from making the finished balm look good. The balm will be a pale cream, to an off white without if left to its natural color. You can of course color this balm with any color you wish. Just make sure it’s an oil soluble colorant.
Substitutions
- PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor oil, if you would prefer a fully natural product, oliveM 300 would be a great substitution here.
- Butter, any butter could be used, shea would be the obvious choice.
- Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl alcohol would be my first choice here as it give the same stability, and a similar feeling.
- Oils, any heat safe oils would work well. Try to choose ones that have good shelf life.
- Vitamin E, you could leave this out but the shelf life of the balm will be more like 6 months
- Essential Oil, any oil you have to hand. Just make sure you follow usage recommendations for the one you choose.
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Ingredients
Equipment
Method
- 51.5 grams Coconut Oil, 9 grams Mango Butter, 10 grams Apricot Kernel Oil, 5 grams Castor Oil, 8.5 grams Cetyl AlcoholWeigh the Coconut oil, Mango butter, Cetyl alcohol, Apricot kernel, and Castor oil into a clean heat proof container. Place the container with the oils into a pan of simmering water and gently heat until the oils have completely melted.
- 15 grams PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor oilOnce the oils have melted, remove the container from the water & Stir in the PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor oil until fully dissolved. This may take little while, but it should fully dissolve.
- Mica PowdersIf using mica, now's the time to add it. Stir until it's fully disbursed. Continue to stir until the oils have cooled to 40c (104f).
- 0.5 grams Vitamin E Oil, 0.5 gram Orange Essential OilOnce the oils have cooled, it's safe to add the vitamin E and the essential oil. Stir them in well so that they have been fully disbursed.
- Allow the cleansing balm to cool and thicken slightly. The texture is ready when a drizzle of the balm leaves a faint line on the surface before slowly disappearing. You can speed this process up considerably by placing the container in a cold icy water bath whilst stirring.
- 1 Cosmetic Jar 4 ozWhen the cleanser begins to thicken, pour it into a cosmetic safe jar and leave it to harden. This can take up to 24 hours, depending on room temperature.To speed up the setting process, place the jar in the refrigerator with the lid off. The balm should harden within around one hour. Once the cleansing balm has hardened it should stay solid at room temperature, and it's safe to put the lid on.The balm can be used straight away and will keep for up to a year as long as it's been stored correctly.
Notes
- If the balm is too soft add more cetyl alcohol. Too hard, lower the amount of cetyl alcohol.
- Want a totally natural balm, use olivem 300 instead of the PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor oil. This should be used in the same way however it comes in a liquid form so no need to wait for it to dissolve.
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How to Use
Use this cleansing balm on dry skin with dry hands.
- Scoop out a small amount (about pea to almond-sized) and gently massage it over your face using circular motions. Take your time, especially over areas with makeup, SPF, or heavier build up.
- Wet your hands with a little warm water and continue to massage. The balm will turn milky as it emulsifies and lifts dirt and makeup from the skin.
- Rinse off with warm water, or remove with a warm, damp cloth.
- If you prefer, follow with a gentle water-based cleanser as a second cleanse.
- Pat the skin dry and continue with the rest of your skincare routine.
Storage
The cleansing balm should be stored in a clean, cosmetic-safe jar with the lid securely closed. Keep it in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight and heat sources, as high temperatures can soften the balm.
Always use clean, dry hands or a spatula to avoid introducing water into the jar, which will help extend the shelf life. If the balm softens in warm weather, it can be placed in the refrigerator for a short time to firm it back up. When stored correctly, the balm will keep for up to 12 months.
Final Thoughts
There’s something so satisfying about a balm that melts into the skin and then transforms into a soft milk with just a splash of water. It feels luxurious, but it’s actually very simple to make.
This fruity balm to milk cleanser strikes that lovely balance between effective cleansing and gentle nourishment.
It removes makeup and SPF with ease yet rinses clean without leaving a heavy or greasy film behind. Because it’s water-free, it’s also wonderfully stable and long-lasting, no complicated preservation required.
