If you’ve been looking for a lightweight lotion that leaves your skin feeling softer, smoother, and more refreshed, this DIY skin tightening cream is a lovely one to try.
I’ve combined hydrating humectants, lightweight oils and DIY skincare actives like niacinamide, caffeine and hyaluronic acid to create something that feels nice and silky, nourishing, and comfortable on my skin, without becoming too heavy or greasy.
The goal of this recipe was to create a balanced natural skin tightening cream recipe that focuses on hydration, skin conditioning and improving the overall appearance of my skin over time.
Watch How To Make This
If you’re new to making lotions and creams, it’s also worth taking a look at my DIY lotion guide, where I walk through the basics before moving on to more advanced recipes like this one.
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Ingredients
Equipment
Method
- 6 grams Glycerine, 0.6 grams Hydroxyethyl CellulosePlace the glycerin into one of the heat proof containers. Add the HEC and mix with a spatula until fully combined.
- 134.4 grams Distilled WaterAdd the distilled water and stir well until fully combined, then leave the mixture to hydrate for around 5–10 minutes. Don’t worry if it still looks quite thin at this stage, as it will fully develop during the heating and emulsifying stage.
- 2 grams D-Panthenol Powder, 6 grams Niacinamide Powder, 2 grams Caffeine PowderNow we can add the panthenol, niacinamide, and caffeine. Mix with the spatula until fully dissolved.
- 6 grams Calendula Oil, 8 grams Camellia Seed Oil, 6 grams Olive Squalane, 4 grams Shea Butter, 9 grams Olivem 1000, 4 grams Cetyl AlcoholIn a separate heat proof beaker, combine Oil Phase B ingredients (calendula and camellia oils, olive squalane, shea butter, olivem 1000 and cetyl alcohol).
- Place both the beakers into a hot water bath. A water bath consists of a shallow pan with a couple of inches of gently simmering water. Leave the beakers in the water bath until the waxes have melted and the water has heated through. They both need to be around 75c (167f).
- Once heated, remove both beakers from the heat. Quickly add the water to the oils before they have a chance to cool.
- Grab the stick blender and stick blend for around 2 minutes.
- After a couple of minutes of blending, change to a spatula and continue to stir by hand while the lotion is cooling. We need the lotion to cool to below 40c (104f).
- 2 grams Vitamin E Oil, 2 grams Geogard ECT, 1 grams Bisabolol, 1 grams Essential Oil or Fragrance OilWhen the lotion has cooled to below 40c (104f) we can now add our cooldown ingredients. Add them one at a time stirring after each one (Vitamin E, Preservative, Bisabolol and any fragrance if using).
- 6 grams Hyaluronic Acid GelOnce the cooldown ingredients are fully combined, stir in the hyaluronic acid solution.
- 1 Cosmetic Jar 8ozPour into a clean, sterilised container and leave to set.
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About The Ingredients I’m Using
Glycerin
This is a humectant, which simply means it helps draw moisture into the skin and hold onto it. So instead of your lotion just sitting on the surface, glycerin helps keep your skin hydrated for longer.
In this formula I are using it at 6% which gives a really nice balance. It boosts your hydration without making the lotion feel too sticky or heavy. Especially since I paired it with some lighter oils, like camellia oil and that silky touch from olive squalane.
Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC)
HEC is a powdered gum that’s used to gently thicken the lotion and improve the overall skin feel. It works in a similar way to xanthan gum in giving the lotion good stability. Having said that I feel HEC helps create a smoother, silkier texture.
D panthenol powder
Also known as provitamin B5, is a humectant with soothing and conditioning properties. It helps attract moisture to the skin, leaving it feeling softer, smoother, and more comfortable while also adding a lovely silky feel to the finished cream.
Niacinamide
Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that has become extremely popular in skincare. It is often used in products designed to improve the appearance of uneven skin tone, texture, and dull looking skin.
I included it in this formula because it helps the skin appear firmer and healthier over time. It also works well alongside hydrating ingredients such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid, helping the skin feel softer, more balanced, and better moisturised.
Caffeine
Caffeine is commonly used in skin tightening creams as it is thought to help temporarily stimulate circulation and improve the overall appearance of the skin. It is often included in products designed to help the skin look firmer, smoother, and more toned.
In our lotion, it works beautifully alongside the niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, helping give the formula a more active, refreshing feel.
Hyaluronic Acid gel (1% solution)
One of the most important ingredients in our formula. Hyaluronic acid is a moisture binding ingredient naturally found within the skin. I love it in my lotions for the way it helps attract and hold water. In my skin tightening lotion, its main role is to boost hydration and help the skin feel and look plumper. Well hydrated skin naturally tends to look healthier and slightly firmer, which is why hyaluronic acid works so nicely here. Although HA is classed as being heatstable, I have chosen to add this at cool down for maximum performance.
Oils and Butter
For the oil phase of this lotion, I wanted to create a blend that felt nourishing and conditioning without becoming too heavy or greasy on the skin. Calendula infused sunflower oil was chosen for its gentle, soothing properties, while camellia oil adds a lightweight, silky feel that absorbs beautifully into the skin. Olive squalane helps give the lotion a smooth, velvety finish and improves slip, helping the cream feel more elegant and less oily. A small amount of shea butter was included to add extra richness and softness while helping support the skin barrier. Together, these oils create a balanced blend that leaves the skin feeling soft, moisturised, and comfortable while still keeping the lotion lightweight enough for everyday use.
Olivem 1000
Olivem 1000, this is always my go to for a natural emulsifier. I find it easy and stable to work with and is relatively easy to obtain in most parts of the world.
Cetyl Alcohol
Cetyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol that helps give your cream more body and structure, making it feel thicker and more stable. It also has some lovely skin benefits, helping to condition and soften the skin.
It adds a nice slip to the cream when applying, allowing it to glide over the skin more easily and giving the finished product a more luxurious feel.
Vitamin E
Vitamin E helps to care for both your skin and your formula. It’s packed with antioxidants which can help support and protect the skin, leaving it feeling soft and nourished. It also helps slow down the oxidation of your oils, which means your lotion stays fresher for longer and is less likely to go rancid too quickly.
Bisabolol
Bisabolol is a soothing skincare ingredient naturally found in chamomile. I have included in my skin tightening lotion, to help balance the more active ingredients by adding a calming and comforting element to the formula. This helps the lotion feel gentler and more conditioning on the skin.
Substitutes
- Distilled Water, as always, replacing half or all of the distilled water with a hydrosol would make a lovely addition.
- Glycerin, glycerin is all about hydration soI really wouldn’t want to replace this. If you must I would increase the D panthenol powder by 1% and the water by another 2%
- Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC), xanthan gum would be the obvious choice. Use it like for like.
- D panthenol powder, increasing the glycerin would be the easiest. You could also increase the HA by 1%
- Niacinamide, a hard one to substitute because it offers several benefits in one ingredient, including barrier support, brightening, soothing, and balancing the skin.
- Caffeine, green tea extract would be a nice substitute. Use at the same amount but add at cool down.
- Oil Calendula Infused Sunflower Oil a simple swap would be plain sunflower oil, however if you have another infused oil that you fancy giving a try, by all means go for it .
- Camellia Oil another light oil such as sweet almond or jojoba
- Olive Squalane, fractionated coconut oil or ecosilk would both be good
- Shea Butter, any butter of your choice.
- Olivem 1000, to keep it natural Montanov 202 or Ritamulse (ecomulse) If natural isn’t so important then Polawax or emulsifier NF
- Cetyl Alcohol, cetearyl alcohol
- Vitamin E, rosemary antioxidant extract (ROE) you could leave it out but the cream will have a shorter shelf life.
- Preservative Eco, any broad spectrum preservative. Remember to follow the manufacturers guild lines for usage rate.
- Bisabolol, chamomile extract or oat extract
- Fragrance Oil/ Essential oil, this is totally up to you. You can also keep it simple and leave it unfragranced.Hyaluronic Acid gel, aloe vera gel or beta glucan the latter at 0.5% (1g in this recipe)
Final Thoughts
This DIY skin tightening cream recipe is a great example of how a well-balanced lotion can leave your skin looking healthier, fresher and more hydrated without relying on too heavy ingredients.
The combination of some lovely lotion ingredients creates a nice cream that feels refreshing and gentle enough for everyday use. The texture is silky, absorbs beautifully and is not too greasy.
It’s also a very flexible recipe. You can keep it completely fragrance free and swap the oils to suit your skin. You can also make use of hydrosols and botanical extracts depending on what you have to hand.
A lovely natural homemade skin tightening cream that feels luxurious and is surprisingly easy to make at home.
