Coconut oil is often the soap maker’s first choice oil as it creates a lovely hard white soap. I love the smell of coconut, I use it often and I have a great coconut oil soap recipe to share with you using the cold process method.
First I want to say that although many soap makers are happy to make a batch of soap using only coconut oil I sometimes find it a little drying, so this time I’ve mixed it with shortening/vegetable oil to balance this out.
The result is a very nice hard soap with large bubbles which is particularly beneficial for anyone with oily skin.
This is a 2 layer coconut oil soap recipe that takes a little more effort than some of my other soaps but it smells and looks divine so I think it is worth it 😉
I’ve chosen to make this batch in a silicon loaf mold, but it also looks incredibly good in a square shallow mold. Having said that it makes it look a little like candy so you may want to keep it out of reach of children!
Ingredients For The White layer:
- 330g Coconut oil
- 170g Shortening/vegetable fat
- 150g Distilled water
- 82g Caustic soda/Lye
- 1 tsp Geranium essential oil
- 1 tsp Fragrance oil
Ingredients For The Pink layer:
This will be the same as the white layer but with the addition of a colorant.
2 tsp bright pink mica + 1 tbsp oil for blending it with. Any liquid carrier oil will do (olive, vegetable or sunflower, almond ect….)
Note: When purchasing Fragrance oil and Mica colorants always check that they are suitable for using in cold process soap recipes.
Making Your Coconut Oil Soap
The White layer:
Important: Follow the cold process method plus the following recipe specific steps:
In Cold Process Step 4 – Combining oils and lye when they reach an equal temperature of between 140F (60C) TO 120F (49C).
In Cold Process Step 6 – Add the essential and fragrance oil at very light trace, then quickly transfer to a mold.
Cover with towels and leave to stand for two weeks before starting your pink layer.
The Pink layer:
Important: Leave your white layer for two weeks then start the pink layer. Its possible that a few days will be enough for the soap to harden but I have had problems with the pink bleeding into the white when I make it too soon. If you are confident that your first layer has hardened you can try going earlier with the second if you prefer, but I always leave it two weeks to be sure.
Blend the tablespoon of carrier oil with the pink mica and set aside.
Important: Follow the same process as above in the white layer (using the same ingredients), until you reach a light trace.
In Cold Process Step 6 – Stirring with a hand whisk or wooden spoon and working quickly add and blend the mica/oil mix at light trace.
Now add the essential and fragrance oil. You will notice both the mica and the fragrance oil will accelerate trace, so again you need to work quickly.
Pour over the first, set layer (the white layer). Don’t panic if your soap begins to harden too quickly (like mine did whilst messing around with the camera!) just push/force it into the mold and smooth it off and it should be fine. And don’t worry if the pink layer runs down the edges of the white layer, this can be trimmed later.
Cover with towels and leave for 24 hours before removing and slicing, try not to slice too thinly, they need to be chunky.
This is a lovely coconut oil soap recipe that makes a fantastic homemade gift, have a go and let me know how you get on using the comments below… And please feel free to ask questions.
In your 2 layer coconut oil recipe, you use vegetable fat / shortening. Is it possible to substitute an oil (olive or tallow)?
Hi Steven, take a look at The Lye Calculator and Formulation Guide For Soap Making That should point you in the right direction.
Very useful information tutorial for me.
Can one add the second layer after a couple of days? The soap is usually firm by then. Why the two week limit? Thanks.
Welcome Heidi
For sure, its possible that a few days will be enough for the soap to harden but I have had problems with the pink bleeding into the white when I make it too soon. If you are confident that your first layer has hardened you can try going earlier with the second if you prefer, but I always leave it two weeks to be sure.
Thanks for this, Angela. My concern was that the two layers wouldn’t stick together if one had hardened, but it looks as if there isn’t a problem. Cheers.