Coconut oil is often the soap maker’s first choice oil as it creates a lovely hard white soap. I love the smell of coconut, I use it often and I have a great coconut oil soap recipe to share with you using the cold process method.
First I want to say that although many soap makers are happy to make a batch of soap using only coconut oil I sometimes find it a little drying, so this time I’ve mixed it with shortening/vegetable oil to balance this out.
The result is a very nice hard soap with large bubbles which is particularly beneficial for anyone with oily skin. This is a 2 layer coconut oil soap recipe that takes a little more effort than some of my other soaps but it smells and looks divine so I think it is worth it 😉
Also, take a moment to check out my coconut soap recipe made using coconut milk. Using milk over water offers your soaps a creamier, silkier texture that you just couldn’t achieve without using fancier, more expensive ingredients.
Ok, so for this soap I’ve chosen to make it in a silicon loaf mold, but it also looks incredibly good in a square shallow mold. Having said that it makes it look a little like candy so you may want to keep it out of reach of children!
Ingredients For The White layer
- 330g Coconut oil
- 170g Shortening/vegetable fat
- 150g Distilled water
- 82g Caustic soda/Lye
- 1 tsp Geranium essential oil
- 1 tsp Fragrance oil
Ingredients For The Pink layer
This will be the same as the white layer but with the addition of a colorant.
- Same Ingredients As White Layer
- 2 tsp Bright Pink Mica
- 1 tbsp Carrier oil – For blending the mica (any liquid carrier oil will do, olive, vegetable or sunflower, almond ect)
Note: When purchasing Fragrance oil and Mica colorants always check that they are suitable for use in cold process soap recipes.
Watch How To Make Basic Cold Process Soap
Before you make this soap, take a few minutes to watch the video below for the basic method. For more detailed information see how to make cold process soap at home.
Making The White layer
Important: Follow the cold process method plus the following recipe specific steps:
In Cold Process Step 4 – Combining oils and lye when they reach an equal temperature of between 140F (60C) TO 120F (49C).
In Cold Process Step 6 – Add the essential and fragrance oil at very light trace, then quickly transfer to a mold.
Cover with towels and leave to stand for two weeks before starting your pink layer.
Making The Pink layer
Important: Leave your white layer for two weeks then start the pink layer. Its possible that a few days will be enough for the soap to harden but I have had problems with the pink bleeding into the white when I make it too soon. If you are confident that your first layer has hardened you can try going earlier with the second if you prefer, but I always leave it two weeks to be sure.
First, blend the tablespoon of carrier oil with the pink mica and set it aside.
Important: Follow the same process as above in the white layer (using the same ingredients and following the cold process method until you reach a light trace.
In Cold Process Step 6 – Stirring with a hand whisk or wooden spoon and working quickly add and blend the mica/oil mix at light trace.
Now add the essential and fragrance oil. You will notice both the mica and the fragrance oil will accelerate trace, so again you need to work quickly.
Pour over the first, set layer (the white layer). Don’t panic if your soap begins to harden too quickly (like mine did whilst messing around with the camera!) just push/force it into the mold and smooth it off and it should be fine. And don’t worry if the pink layer runs down the edges of the white layer, this can be trimmed later.
Cover with towels and leave for 24 hours before removing and slicing, try not to slice too thinly, they need to be chunky.
This is a lovely coconut oil soap recipe that makes a fantastic homemade gift, have a go and let me know how you get on using the comments below… And please feel free to ask questions.
Soap Calculator & Formulation Guide
Select your chosen oils, along with the weight or percentage. The soap calculator will then show the total weight of lye and water required. The result can be instantly adjusted by changing your preferred superfatting level or water/lye ratio.
Hi Angela! Was just wondering does it actually smell like coconut?
Unfortunately no. However, if that’s what you want, try using a coconut fragrance oil. Although be careful, as fragrance oils can be a little unpredictable in soap. Make sure the brand you buy is suitable for CP soap recipes.
Hi Angela great post. Do you mind sharing what kind of gloves you are wearing and why you use several different types during the process?
Thanks.
Hi Warren
I have a few pairs of gloves, there’s no real reason why I used a different pair for the second half, apart from that it was 2 weeks later. Strong household gloves are all you need.
In your 2 layer coconut oil recipe, you use vegetable fat / shortening. Is it possible to substitute an oil (olive or tallow)?
Hi Steven, take a look at The Lye Calculator and Formulation Guide For Soap Making That should point you in the right direction.
Very useful information tutorial for me.
Can one add the second layer after a couple of days? The soap is usually firm by then. Why the two week limit? Thanks.
Welcome Heidi
For sure, its possible that a few days will be enough for the soap to harden but I have had problems with the pink bleeding into the white when I make it too soon. If you are confident that your first layer has hardened you can try going earlier with the second if you prefer, but I always leave it two weeks to be sure.
Thanks for this, Angela. My concern was that the two layers wouldn’t stick together if one had hardened, but it looks as if there isn’t a problem. Cheers.